Cedar Breaks and A Summit Storm

Still in the autumn trip time warp–here we are, October in Utah.

Safely Down the Mountain

TAB in the Valley © 2010 Bo Mackison

It started out as a simple side trip. We figured it was less than a hundred miles of traveling, and it was off the interstate, and we are always looking for an excuse to get off the interstate. We checked the map. All we had to do was take a scenic route up to Cedar Breaks National Monument and then head to Zion National Park, our evening destination, on the back roads. Ha ha ha!

Remember. These plans were made by Wisconsin folks. We are accustomed to snow, ice, sleet. We know how to drive in that messy stuff. But we aren’t exactly experienced in the ways of MOUNTAINS. And neither Sherpa nor I were prepared for an early October blizzard.

Cedar Breaks National Monument

Entering Cedar Breaks in a Snowstorm © 2010 Bo Mackison

At first, the roads stayed fairly clear. A lot of snow came down in a very short time, but we laughed to see how it covered the pines and aspens in white. We had thought we would see fall colors, but we had the added thrill of seeing winter colors on top of autumn colors.

Oh boy. It gets more interesting.

Incoming --Storm!

On the Summit! © 2010 Bo Mackison

We arrived at Cedar Breaks National Monument, and THEN I discovered a small symbol on the map that noted we were on the top of the Colorado Plateau, and at an altitude of over 10,000′.  We were at the park during normal hours of operation, but the Ranger’s office was closed and locked. No one was around. And the storm was getting a little wild. We passed through white-out conditions on the summit, and the roads were now icy enough to cause swerving with the trailer. Hmm.

Sherpa thought we should turn around, but I lobbied hard to keep going. After all, we had passed the summit. That meant we were on our way down, which seemed like the right direction to be headed.

Once we were back on solid roads, I read the park brochure more closely. Seems that Cedar Breaks usually closes once it gets heavy snows, usually somewhere between late October and early December. Well, this was October 5th. The snow came early in 2010.

Just Not Expected in Early October

Descending on Icy Roads © 2010 Bo Mackison

Lucky for us, as we headed down the mountain, we turned onto a road that carried more traffic. A snow plow had recently cleared the pavement and so travel became much easier. There still wasn’t much of a view–and I’m still not sure what Cedar Breaks looks like. All of the other mountains were hidden in show clouds, too. But the road was clear enough to continue on safely.

Utah Backroads II

Finally on Nearly Dry Backroads © 2010 Bo Mackison

It wasn’t long before we were down to a more reasonable altitude, and fall weather returned. We happily left winter at Cedar Breaks and headed for Zion National Park, only 75 miles away.

We might have had a little too much excitement on that stretch of the trip. Sherpa said, “No more snow packed mountain roads when I’m pulling the trailer, please.”

I agreed.

Zion is next…

Arches in Devil’s Garden

Double O Arch

Double O Arch

Double O Arch is the second largest arch in the Devil’s Garden area of Arches National Park. (Landscape Arch is the largest.) There are actually two arches here – the smaller arch spans 21 feet and the larger one has a span of 71 feet.  They are both a part of the same sandstone fin.  The path to this arch is considered primitive (ha!) and is nearly a two mile hike from the Devil’s Garden Trailhead and parking lot. If you are a movie aficionado, you may recognize these rock formations from Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade.

Top Story Window

Top Story Window

Although geologists do not recognize the classification of a rock window, popular names often attribute window-like features to openings in the rocks. This opening, Top Story Window, is in the southern part of Devil’s Garden.

Landscape Arch at Sunrise

The Grand-daddy of Arches

The Grand-Daddy of All Arches

No, I am not talking about McDonald’s Arches.

There are arches other than those golden ones which have become an American icon.

These natural beauties are the arches that should be one of our icons.  Landscape Arch is surely one of the world’s greatest natural wonders.

It has the greatest span of any natural arch documented, over 290 feet long. At its narrowest, the rock is only 6 feet wide. This is an arc natural arch, a geological specimen very old and near the end of its life cycle. The arch could collapse any day or it could last another century. You have to remember we’re talking about arches made from eroded sandstone here – they have an incredibly long life span, but can collapse without warning.

In the last 17 years, sizable chunks have fallen from Landscape Arch.

In September of 1991, a 73-foot slab of rock crashed to the earth from underneath the narrowest part. This rock fall may have actually prolonged the life of the rest of the arch, as the piece was considered structurally unimportant and it reduced the weight of the suspended rock. In June of 1995, a 47-foot mass fell from the front of the thinnest section , soon to be followed by a third rock 2 weeks later. Since then, the trail that once wound beneath the arch has been closed by the Park Service. Smart move!

Landscape Arch is in Devil’s Garden in Arches National Park, a few miles north of Moab Utah.

The hike to see this arch is just over a mile, but it really is an easy hike to this point on extremely maintained paths. If you can walk 2 miles in your mall, you can walk the 2 miles in and out to see this giant arch. If you are ever in this area, consider getting out of your car and really look at the rocks. This is a must see, and the Park Service has made it as easy as possible to see Landscape Arch. I saw toddlers carried on their parents’ backs and I saw octogenarians walking with canes, all checking out the magnificent view.

There are other arches in Devils’ Garden – it has the largest number of significant natural arches in the world.

However, once past this landmark, it gets a mite more rugged (ha!) and it is almost easy to feel that you are an intrepid explorer in the wilderness if you are visiting at an off-peak time. Next post, I’ll share with you the other arches in the area – the ones I had to crawl up and down rocks to see. Ah, but they are so awesome. Such a wonderful experience to have filed away in my brain for further consideration.

Desert Tree at Dusk

Arches National Park, Utah

Arches National Park, Utah © 2008 Bo Mackison

While the snow flies here in Wisconsin, instantly turning my world into whites and grays, I am bringing to mind the warmth of the desert – the oranges, yellows, and pinks – and the cooling breezes that wash over the earth when the sun sets. I give thanks for the memories.

This scape was taken in mid-October at Arches National Park, Utah – a high desert region.

Wilderness Exposure

Devil’s Garden Trail explores some of the Utah back country in Arches National Park. Your reward for scrambling over rocky surfaces, navigating the narrow tops of exposed sandstone fins, and then climbing up and down short, steep crevices is a view not many people see – eight spectacular arches, and back-country worthy of many oohs and ahs, and a few comments, such as “I can’t walk on that #%*& ledge!”

Creative Cairn

Creative Cairn © 2008 Bo Mackison

Though most cairns (markers that let you know – really – you are still on the trail) are rocks stacked up in a pile, a previous hiker took the time to re-arrange this cairn into replicas of two hikers. So by looking at this photo, you can see we are precisely where we are supposed to be, even though we are vaguely lost.

This is the Trail? Are you Sure?

This is the Trail? Are you Sure? © 2008 Bo Mackison

At this spot, our choices were to scramble over the dome in front of us, or deal with the tangle of dead wood around the side. We scrambled up the rock, which thankfully was not slippery, and then slid down the other side. No sweat! (Yeah, right!)

The Worn Part iS the Trail

The WORN Part is the Trail © 2008 Bo Mackison

As was most evident to us, the trail was the worn path on the rocks. I kept my sights on the spectacular stand of fins ahead, and kept taking deep breaths. The trail marker at the beginning said the hike was not appropriate for people who suffer from extreme agoraphobia (fear of heights) – what about those of us who only have a minor case?

But I exaggerate! I loved this hike. We started at dawn and returned to the trailhead about 2 in the afternoon. I’ve seldom seen such magnificence. Worth all the bits of anxiety and lack of oxygen. (We were at a high elevation for Wisconsin folk!)

Then we went out for beer and pizza. It seemed the only reasonable thing to do.