Day 6 Oh, Oslo!

From my dictated journal on September 29, 2018 8:40 PM:

I love Oslo.

Sailing the Oslofjord and pulling into the dock before sunrise and everything was cool blue and quiet.

Once off the ship, and on our way to a morning of art museums and Edvard Munch, we passed the Akershus Fortress. The colorful installation in front of the Akershus is a part of Oslo’s effort to rid the city center of as many cars as possible. The empty parking lots have inspired a whole new breed of art — post-traffic art installations. This parking lot now has a colorful design and a parking meter that’s equipped with a WiFi speaker where you play your own music and dance along. Shall We Dance? is by artist Marisa Ferreira.

Empty Chairs © 2018 Bo Mackison

There’s also art near the Fortress with a more serious intention — it’s an art memorial for Jewish Holocaust victims.

Artist Antony Gormley described his sculpture in this way: “The Holocaust cannot be represented. I want to make a place to remember, to make a bridge between the living and the dead in order that these events and their implication should not be lost. The site is very evocative with the most minimal intervention. The presence of the excluding walls of the fort and the sea are already very powerful imaginative catalysts. The trees act as a witness to time and its passing.”

Santa by L.A. Artist Paul McCartney © 2018 Bo Mackison

We saw lots of street art while touring Oslo on our way to art in art museums. Art in Oslo is both inside and outside. Paul McCartney recently unveiled his sculpture Santa, a six-meter tall, Santa-red cast iron rendition of the holiday icon holding something that looks like a Christmas tree. Hm. It IS an interesting feature in the middle of a round about.

We then visited the National Gallery and saw several of Munch’s paintings, including his famed The Scream, Madonna, The Sick Child, Dance of Life and Puberty, plus lots of works by Munch’s 20th century contemporaries such as Harald Sohlberg, Henrik Sørensen, Ludvig Karsten and the sculptor Gustav Vigeland, and I especially enjoyed my introduction to the Scandinavian landscape painters and Norwegian Romanticists.

Monet’s Rain at Etratat, 1886t

More rooms displayed art by Monet, Manet, Van Gogh, Gaugin, Toulouse-LaTrec. And of course 90 minutes in any museum is never enough, and thus much of the museum’s collection required walk-bys, so I definitely need to plan another sojourn to Oslo.

Following our stroll through the National Gallery, we drove to the Munch Museum.  Edvard Munch bequeathed all of his works and arts and papers to the city of Oslo. They are mostly housed in a museum built in 1964; a new museum is being built and will be completed next year.

I love the Munch Museum; I think I would love any museum dedicated to a single artist. Of course, other artist’s work is shown in the museum. We were there while this was open: Moonrise, An Exhibit of Marlene Dumas and Edward Munch.  (Follow the link for all sorts of information.)

After our museum tour was over, we headed back to the ship. On the way we drove past the Opera House. Lots of people were walking up the structure. Architect firm is Snøhetta. Beautiful from afar!

From Wikipedia: “The roof of the building angles to ground level, creating a large plaza that invites pedestrians to walk up and enjoy the panoramic views of Oslo. While much of the building is covered in white granite and La Facciata, a white Italian carrara marble, the stage tower is clad in white aluminium, in a design by Løvaas & Wagle that evokes old weaving patterns.”

I have to come back to Oslo. I’ve never wanted to see opera before my life, but this building makes me want to come back and see opera!

Smørrebrød on the Viking Sky © 2018 Bo Mackison

Smørrebrød! Yes. Back to the ship for lunch and our first taste of Smørrebrød, an open face sandwich with a bit of salad and a topping of meat or fish. (And then, after that meal, all seems well with the world!)

We canceled our planned excursion to Vigeland Park because of inclement weather (RAIN!) and an aching hip. Next time! But we were not about to sit on the ship with an entire city beckoning us to explore. So we walked across the street from the cruise ship terminal and took a steep set of stairs set into a grassy knoll to the back entrance of Akershus. A trek through a tunnel and an iron gate, and we were in the Akershus Fortress facing the harbor. What a view!

We played with the cannons, pretending to fire on the pretty Viking Sky. And then we strolled through the grounds, dodging the rainstorms, and eventually discovered Norway’s Resistance Museum. A must visit site.

Norway Resistance Museum, photo from Visit Oslo.

The Norway Resistance Museum at Akershus Fortress documents Norway’s domestic WWII history from 1940-1945. The exhibition has re-created five years of Nazi occupation through pictures, documents, posters, objects, models, and original copies of newspapers and recordings. The Museum is located in a building that dates from the 17th century, and adjoins the memorial for Norwegian patriots executed during the war.

It’s a sobering museum, and yet it still speaks loudly, honoring the efforts of those that refused to give in, refused to remain quiet, even while risking their lives.

We set sail down the Oslofjord about 6 PM, and got ourselves dried off just in time to claim a front row seat in the Explorer’s Lounge and take in the stunning sunset.

We sail tonight heading for Aalborg, a change in plans. Due to high winds we’ll no longer be visiting Skagen, but will instead visit the historic city of Aalborg which lies in more protected waters.

Day 4: Copenhagen and Setting Sail

Copenhagen Thursday, September 27, 2018, 10:20 p.m.

Good Morning, First sunrise on the Viking Sky © 2018 Bo Mackison

This was Day 2 of our Viking Cruiseline’s Scandinavia and the Kiel Canal cruise, but it’s Day 4 for us because we added the two-day Copenhagen extension. It was a good choice for us, especially with my travel anxiety. We arrived on Monday, then had two days to get settled and alleviate some of the jet lag symptoms, with plenty of time to make sure our luggage arrived when we did and explore art museums on our own. Yesterday we boarded the ship  and today we spent much of the day seeing just a bit more of Copenhagen. Then we set sail at 6 p.m. with cheers and champagne.

But first we explored more of Copenhagen with a Viking Walking Tour, then we went off on our own and did our own thing.

From the Viking Ocean Cruise website, this is their information about the included shore tour. (Every port has an included shore excursion at no extra cost, usually an introductory bus and/or walking tour. Optional, more in-depth and special interest tours are always available for a fee.) We’ve choesn to do a mix of both — the included tours plus a few special interest tours, especially when the special interest is related to an art museum or gallery tour.

Landmarks and History of Denmark’s Capital City — Included Tour

Explore the landmarks of Copenhagen and learn about the city’s history during a walking excursion. With a local guide, you will stop to see The Little Mermaid statue sitting serenely in the harbor at Langelinie and visit the courtyard at Amalienborg. Continue to Copenhagen’s largest monument, the Gefion Fountain, then Amalienborg Palace, the winter residence of the Queen of Denmark. Here, admire the royal rococo buildings and square, plus the stunning Marble Church, New Opera House and flourishing Amaliehaven (Amalie Garden) with its centerpiece fountain. Pass Frederiks Hospital—the country’s first hospital and now home to the Danish Museum of Art & Design—on your way to the Kastellet (The Citadel). A formidable fortress built in the shape of a five-pointed star, it is one of the best-preserved strongholds in Europe and has been protecting Copenhagen’s harbor since the early 17th century.

And now the breakdown of our walking tour:

We were a group of about thirty with one guide. We were unable to see the Mermaid State as originally planned because the ship had been unable to dock near the city center at Langeline due to strong winds. Instead, we took a bus into the center of the city and began at the site of the Kastellet, or the Citadel.

“Pass Frederiks Hospital—the country’s first hospital and now home to the Danish Museum of Art & Design” means walk past. We paused for a few minutes to allow time for photos of the front of the Marble Church. But we had more than adequate time to spend in the courtyard at Amalienborg Palace, and our guide timed it perfectly so we had front-row-standing to see the post replacement at the Prince’s Palace.

Though the tour guide was informative, we chose to leave the tour at this point. The tour was continuing on to see the Mermaid and the Gefion Fountain before returning to the ship, so we took this opportunity to return to the Marble Church.

The Marble Church with its copper green dome is quite impressive. Its t official name is Frederik’s Church, and King Frederik V laid the foundation stone in 1749, but it was not completed until 1894.

LEGO Chocolates are Tempting © 2018 Bo Mackison

Then we walked towards the City Center, but had to stop and admire some special chocolates! LEGOs!

Finally, last stop, we walked the canal of Nyhavn — there was only a peek of sunshine, but it was still worth seeing such an iconic sight.

Iconic Copenhagen’s Nyhavn or New Harbor © 2018 Bo Mackison

Nyhavn (which means New Harbor in Danish) is a waterfront and canal dating from the 17th century. It is lined by brightly coloured 17th and early 18th century townhouses and bars, cafes and restaurants. Historical wooden ships line the sides of the canal.

The northern side of Nyhavn is lined by brightly colored buildings built of wood, bricks, and plaster. The oldest house, at No. 9, dates from 1681.

Viking Sky ©2018 Bo Mackison

We returned to the ship and readied to set sail on the first water leg of our journey–Gothenburg Sweden.

The weather changes fast — we had blue skies for awile which gave way to clouds and a brisk wind.

We had reservations in one of the specialty restaurants tonight. It’s called the Chef’s Table and offered a five-course menu with an Asian theme. Bob had the wine pairings, one of the few occasions when an extra charge is added. ($25) He enjoyed the pairings.

The menu sounded a bit intimidating, with a few items I was unfamiliar with, but everything though often unusual was exceptional in taste.

Day 3: More Copenhagen: Exploring on Foot

Copenhagen Wednesday September 26, 2018 9:35 PM

The shuttle bus dropped us across the street from Magison du Nord, a multi-story used-to-be-fancy hotel, now a fancy department store. We made the mistake of walking through the first floor, only to discover a huge sale was taking place, and the masses were buying everything. Of course, there was nothing we either one, wanted, or two, could happily afford, so we made a quick exit out the back door and began to amble along the cobblestone streets. Immediately we got turned around and lost.

But such pretty sights we saw. A fountain with birds. Little courtyards in yellow. Fancy decorated sidewalks.

Earlier we’d found directions to the National Gallery of Denmark and Google maps kept telling us we were only a mile away. 15 minutes. Ha ha. We would walk four blocks and the Google would claim the same thing — one mile and 15 minutes. By the time we got un-turned around and heading in the correct direction, we spent nearly an hour getting to the front door. It didn’t help we kept losing the cell signal and losing our directions! Reminder to self: I need to download maps!

It started raining–again. I’m glad I had my hat and gloves as the evening air got chilly fast. Still, we had a great time, even lost and cold and wet, strolling (more like blustering) through King’s Garden and gawking at the Rosenborg Castle. And my feet hurt, yes, I now have three blisters. I should’ve worn my colder season shoes more in the weeks before leaving, espaecially after a summer of sandals, but I was so intent on preparing emotionally for this journey, I didn’t quite get around to preparing physically. It’s a good thing there is so much new and unusual to see. It helps me stay focused on what’s important. (hint: not my feet or the weather)

So much new and interesting to see. Once we finally got cell service which let us consult Google Maps again, we found our way through a magical place — King’s Garden — with castles and tree-lined walks and an assortment of statues and fountains and other pretty things.

And yes, we finally found our way to the Art Museum and what a worthwhile conclusion to our weary trek.

SMK (Statens Museum for Kunst) is the National Gallery of Denmark. It is the largest art museum in Denmark and home to the nation’s most extensive and important collection of art, covering 700 years.

The showcase exhibit was Take My Breathe Away by Danh Vo. From the SMK website:

“Migration, cultural history and identity are key themes addressed in SMK’s new special exhibition Danh Vo: Take My Breath Away. Danish-Vietnamese Danh Vo ranks among Denmark’s pre-eminent internationally acclaimed living artists – as reflected in this exhibition, which comes to SMK directly from the Guggenheim in New York.”

Stunning work by Vo. Letters from Kissinger era, cultural artifacts, Viet Nam war ephemera — all combined to speak loudly of home and loss and migration as expressed through an artist’s lens.

The architecture of the gallery was exquisite. I particularly liked how the old was joined to the new; second-floor walkways cantilevered above the first-floor sculpture garden.

The original wing included Danish and Nordic art:

The new wing was filled with modern and contemporary offerings:

I loved the exhibit titled 80 Collages for Field Book by Per Kirkeby:

Kirkeby was originally trained as a geologist, so was well familiar with the concept of a field book.  His many subjects included architecture, trees, art techniques, and maps. From 2009- 2012

Walking back to the shuttle bus stop, we once again passed through Kings Garden and stopped to admire the Rosenborg Castle and its surrounding gardens from afar. There was even a moat.

And then back on the shuttle bus and on to the Viking Sky and a late dinner. Almost too exhausted to enjoy the food. Almost, not quite.

Map added for clarification: the lower red dot is where the shuttle bus dropped us off. The yellow line is what we walked on our way to the upper red dot — which is the location of the SMK or National Gallery of Denmark. The little red dot in the lower middle is where we had a welcome warming cappuccino on our way back to the bus.

Day 3: Aboard the Viking Sky

Copenhagen, aboard the Viking Sky. Wednesday, September 26, 2018, 2:50 PM

Here’s the overview from Day 1 from the Viking website:

Today was the day we’ve been waiting for. Today was the day that we finally boarded the Viking Sky, the ship which will set sail tomorrow for our cruise, Scandinavia and the Kiel Canal. It’s a cloudy day and I think the ship would look a bit brighter in sunlight, but we’re glad to be aboard.

What we’ve seen thus far, she’s a pretty impressive ship.

First Look at the Viking Sky ©2018 Bo Mackison

We arrived at 11 AM on the Viking shuttle bus from our hotel, the Radisson Blu Copenhagen, a straight to the cruise terminal. An uneventful trip from hotel to ship, for which we were grateful. That meant we had all our luggage and all of our necessary documents when we arrived at the terminal and it was an easy go through security.

Security took about 10 minutes; the groups from the hotel were staggered so there was little wait time. We confirmed our identity with our passports and a credit card. Then we got our ID key cards and walked up the gangplank for the first time.

We arrived before noon and our stateroom was not expected to be ready until 1 PM, but lunch was ready in the World Café. And so we ate — happily. Beer and wine are offered with all meals on Viking cruises, so Bob had his first of glass of wine with our first meal.

A Panorama View of Stateroom 5020, Viking Sky © 2018 Bo Mackison

I decided I’d better take a few photographs before we unpacked our suitcases and the place started to look lived in. There is plenty enough drawers and closet space, and we easily had everything unpacked in a half hour. All of our suitcases fit under the bed. We sent Bob’s two dress shirts and two of my tops to be pressed. Honey is our room steward, a kind young woman from the Philippines, and she and her partner have promised to take good care of us for the next ten days.

I’ve already discovered that the ship’s Wi-Fi is adequate for the basics, but not much more. So I’ll continue to dictate my daily journal and catch up with the photos once there is Wi-Fi capable of handling photos/story for my blog.

Now we are off to the shuttle bus that will take us back into Copenhagen for some independent exploration!

What a great journey this is going to be!

 

 

 

Day 1: In Copenhagen

Copenhagen September 24, 2018 7:50 PM

Clouds Meet Us Over Denmark © 2018 Bo Mackison

We are here. I don’t need to describe the flight other than to say I am so grateful that my fear of flying did not keep me from this trip. We left Chicago at 10 PM and arrived in Copenhagen at 1 PM. There’s a seven-hour time difference.

Baggage Claim. It Says “Copenhagen!” ©2018 Bo Mackison

 

OH, I AM happy to be here. My eyes teared up when I handed my passport to the Border Agent.  She looked at it, then looked up at me, and said: “This is your first stamp.” And I nodded. (I’ve been to other countries—Canada, Mexico, the Caribbean – but never one requiring a passport stamp.)

There are millions of bicycle riders and they have their own bike lanes and their own traffic signals. This requires caution on the part of pedestrians unused to such traffic volumes. Extreme caution required.

This is a City Of Bicycles © 2018 Bo Mackison

It started raining, then it started sleeting. We were only a few blocks from the hotel, so Bob went back to the hotel in search of the umbrella. And I sheltered next to a tall building. Hundreds of bicycles were parked outside. I was still waiting outside the building for Bob and the needed umbrella at 5 o’clock – quitting time. Women and men poured from the entrance, and most of them headed to the rows of bicycles, grabbed one, and peddled off. Fast and ferocious.

“These people are beautiful people,” I thought. I was impressed with their athleticism. Lots of black clothing–black leather pants and black mini skirts and layers of blouses and sweaters and scarves. A bit of gray for contrast, but mostly layers of black. I was impressed–they looked strong and fit. And happy. And courageously crazy for biking in this traffic!

Suddenly I want to take up bicycling and wear all black!

Ordering our First Coffee Was a Challenge! ©2018 Bo Mackison

We didn’t know how to order coffee! It was sleeting and we were walking down the street just getting our bearings and suddenly the sleet changed to hurling ice pellets and we needed shelter – fast. We ducked into a place called ROAST Coffee. There were so many options on the chalkboard, and we got tongue-tied. We were nervous. Yes. Nervous ordering coffee. Finally, we ordered “an Americano.” It seemed safe! (It was also the last Americano we ordered for the duration as we quickly discovered how to speak the coffee language in Scandinavia. Mostly I went for cappuccino. Because, yummy!)

Andersen Bakery — Highly Recommended © 2018 Bo Mackison

More walking. Actually, there was more gaping than walking. The tiny shops, the cobblestone sidewalks, the bicycles. Then it was time to eat. Again. Google maps gave us lots of options, but either we couldn’t find the places or once we looked in the windows we decided it wasn’t quite right. We ended up at Andersen Bakery. Delicious choice!  We had sandwiches, but I can’t tell you what was inside my sandwich. I was too over-the-moon happy with the bread. We also bought 6 filled pastry squares to eat once back to the hotel. Yum. 5 stars!

The evening light was lovely, and so we walked along the harbor and I took a hundred photos of the sky and the harbor and the buildings across the water. I guess the earlier rain was worth it, for the clouds were beautiful.

Copenhagen Harbor, Tour Boat, with Royal Library in the Background © 2018 Bo Mackison

Graffiti along the Copenhagen Harbor © 2018 Bo Mackison

Copenhagen Harbor © 2018 Bo Mackison

My “big” camera jammed in the first half hour of shooting. Maybe it’s a blessing, for it is surely easier to manage an iPhone vs. a camera bag with lenses, etc. Still…not exactly what I had hoped for.

The First Beer – a Belgian Brown ©2018 Bo Mackison

Last we searched for a bar so Bob could sample his first beer on European soil. We found the Café Langebro near the Langebro Bridge and the Copenhagen Harbor. It was a good choice. Mostly locals and a cozy place and dozens of beers from which to choose.

Now to eat the pastries and sleep the sleep of the jet-lagged.