April in the Mediterranean — First Step, Chicago O’Hare

VIKING STAR Mediterranean & Adriatic Sojourn Ocean Cruise
Barcelona to Athens April 3-24, 2023

PRE-EXTENSION IN BARCELONA APRIL 1-2
POST EXTENSION IN ATHENS APRIL 24-28

“We travel, initially, to lose ourselves; and we travel, next to find ourselves. We travel to open our hearts and eyes and learn more about the world than our newspapers will accommodate. We travel to bring what little we can, in our ignorance and knowledge, to those parts of the globe whose riches are differently dispersed. And we travel, in essence, to become young fools again- to slow time down and get taken in, and fall in love once more.” ~ Pico Iyer

Chicago To Barcelona

We had United/Lufthansa flights, Chicago O’Hare to Frankfurt Germany to Barcelona. We had a tight 1:35-minute connection in Frankfurt and a delay in Chicago cut that to 55 minutes. Still, we had enough time to make our connection. Be advised: there is a long flight of stairs going up from the airplane to the terminal, then there is a 15-minute walk to security. Once through security, there is another 15-minute walk to the regional jets. We arrived at 5:30AM so the airport was not crowded — I’m sure that made a difference. We had only had carry-on luggage — hard for the stairs, but otherwise worked fine—thus there was no need to worry about transferred luggage. Lufthansa was checking the weight of economy baggage and refusing those bags weighing more than 17 pounds. If you were in business class, no worries. Plenty of room for carry-on in Business.

UNITED TERMINAL, OHARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, CHICAGO, ILLINOIS

Hotel Nobu Barcelona
Easy to find Viking representatives at the luggage carousels. Just follow the luggage/exit signs. Small vans were there to take us to the hotel. Our FRA-BCN flight was delayed 30 minutes due to airspace restrictions because of the French air controller strikes. We arrived in BCN at 10:00 and were in our hotel room by 11:15. Nobu has Viking down to a science. There were 331 passengers from both the Star and Jupiter for the extensions. Four reps handled questions, made reservations, and offered restaurant recommendations for the Star, another set of reps served the Jupiter passengers. There was an optional Viking walking tour of Barcelona late afternoon of the day before embarkation. $59 per person. We didn’t go since we’d made Park Guell and Sagrada Familia reservations three months ago. (If you want to see the highlights, get advanced tickets. Folks were disappointed to find out main attractions were sold out. Research before you hop on your flight unless you’re satisfied with Viking planning and providing your Barcelona experience. The hotel is lovely and very modern, the staff is helpful. Included breakfast is what you’d expect. Basic buffet with paid options such as omelets and special order eggs. We ate there the first morning, otherwise went in search of local places. Found a great Catalan dining spot three blocks from the hotel. Brassos Bier.

The train station is right across the street from Nobu — underground connections for regional trains/trams and the metro. (Barcelona Sants) We bought a 48-hour Hola travel card for about 16 euros each and took the metro to and from Sagrada Familia, and busses to museums. Recommend using public transportation if you are a seasoned or adventurous traveler and you are mobile. Stairs departing and arriving, not all stations provide services for reduced mobility folks. It worked for us but we had some moments of confusion. An accommodating attendant smoothed the way, but it took some perseverance to find an English-speaking attendant when we ran into issues with the machine refusing our ticket! The train station across the street from the hotel also has many stores — think clothing, luggage, food market, and more. Also, a well-stocked Pharmacy (Farmacia) if you need any last-minute medical stuff. Remember, the pharmacies in Spain are more like urgent care in the States.

Day 12: Amsterdam and Van Gogh

Painterly © 2018 Bo Mackison

The light in Amsterdam is a painterly light, indeed.

Amsterdam Centraal Station was designed by Pierre Cuypers who is also designed the Rijksmuseum. It’s an impressive work of architectural art. We were racing the clock as we walked by Centraal Station, on our way to our timed admission tickets at the Van Gogh Museum.

Van Gogh Museum ©2018 Bo Mackison

And here we are — two buses in busy Friday afternoon traffic — but we all arrived in time to claim our tickets. This museum is BUSY.

Van Gogh’s Sunflowers ©2018 Bo Mackison

No photographs allowed — though their were plenty of visitors taking photos while pretending not to be taking photos. This copy of Sunflowers was one of the few permissbale photo stops.

Van Gogh ©2018 Bo Mackison

Of course, there was no limitations on photos of prints in the gift shop, so I made do with a photo of a copy. But mostly I enjoyed studying the many paintings. There is an extensive display of his self-portraits — so many self-portraits because Van Gogh would not have had the money to pay a model, thus he painted himself. For free.

Bob the Artist ©2018 Bo Mackison

Bob found a “Bob the Artist” book and was more than content to share.

van Gogh Museum ©2018 Bo Mackison

The van Gogh Museum’s new entrance hall opened in 2015. The curved glass structure, positioned between the museum’s two buildings, connects the spaces while providing shelter for waiting visitors.

Mirroring Cube ©2018 Bo Mackison

A mirroring cube between the entrances of Stedelijk Museum and van Gogh Museum, it reminds me of The Bean in Chicago’s Millennium Park with people talking photos in the reflective surfaces.

We walked past the Rijksmuseum  and through its center tunnel. It was designed by Pierre Cuypers and opened in 1885. It consists of two squares with an atrium in each square. In the center is a tunnel with the entrances at ground level and the Gallery of Honour on the first floor.

The Rijksmuseum ©2018 Bo Mackison

The Rijksmuseum is on the Museum Square near the van Gogh Museum.

Amsterdam is famous for its canals and its lovely light. Well deserved.

Painting the Town Red ©2018 Bo Mackison

Painting the town red.

 

Amsterdam ©2018 Bo Mackison

 

Light on the Canal ©2018 Bo Mackison

 

Van Go ©2018 Bo Mackison

A decorated bicycle near the Amsterdam Harbor.

Last Toast ©2018 Bo Mackison

The last toast; tomorrow we fly home.

Day 12 Sailing from Hamburg to Amsterdam

Hamburg on the Elbe ©2018 Bo Mackison

October 5, 2018

The trip from Hamburg to Amsterdam is a half day plus all night plus another half day affair. We leave Hamburg around 2 PM on October 4 and we arrive in Hamburg around 1 PM on October 5. It’s a quiet time after many days of constantly being on the go. We cruised the Elbe, past homes terraced along the banks of the river.

Lighthouse on the Elbe ©2018 Bo Mackison

Lighthouses dot the shore at frequent intervals.

Sheep on the Shore of the Elbe ©2018 Bo Mackison

Near the mouth of the Elbe, sheep graze on the river’s flood plain.

Tidal Chart of the Elbe

There was a conversation in the Explorer’s Lounge about tides in this part of the world, so I looked up tides and took this screenshot. The red dot on October 4th signifies the tide is going out and will be at low tide at 8:35 PM.

We were happy to sit back and enjoy some down time, not that there is ever any “nothing to do” time. Just a look out of any nearby window proves there is always something to see of interest. But Bob read a book — his second on the cruise — and I worked on my travel journal. Then we toasted to a “cruise well enjoyed.”

North Sea Sunrise & Netherlands in the Mist ©2018 Bo Mackison

By the time the sun was rising, we were approaching the Netherlands.

North Sea Channel, IJmuiden, Netherlands ©2018 Bo Mackison

IJmuiden is the newest city in North Holland, and was christened a city in 1876, when the North Sea Canal was officially opened, connecting the Amsterdam harbours to the open sea.

IJmuiden is located at the mouth of the 27-kilometre-long North Sea Channel that links Amsterdam with the sea.

Locks ©2018 Bo Mackison

 

All ships traveling between Amsterdam and the North Sea must pass through the locks at IJmuiden. The four sea locks form a barrier in the mouth of the channel, which offers protection against flooding from the North Sea.

New Lock Construction ©2018 Bo Mackison

New locks are being built to accommodate the newest generation of large ships.

Forward on Deck 10 © 2018 Bo Mackison

 

Entering the Locks ©2018 Bo Mackison

 

 

Botel on the Elbe ©2018 Bo Mackison

Wanna stay near the water? How about on the water? Here’s what the Botel’s website has to say about its boat-hotel.

“The Amstel Botel is Amsterdam’s floating hotel. Stay in our hotel with unique design in appearance. We are located in the center of Amsterdam just 3 minutes walk from the Central Railway Station and 18 minutes ride from Amsterdam Airport, which offers a splendid opportunity to discover Amsterdam’s history, culture and beauty. The Amstel Botel has 175 rooms, smoking and non-smoking rooms available, all with toilet/shower, hot/cold water, safe, AM/FM clock radio, writing desk, telephone.”

Yea or nay?

Canal ©2018 Bo Mackison

A’Dam Lookout is an observation deck with a panoramic view of Amsterdam. Visible is the city’s historical center, the port, the surrounding landscape, and the famous canals which are listed on the UNESCO world heritage list.

Amsterdam Canal ©2018 Bo Mackison

 

Amsterdam, North Holland, Netherlands ©2018 Bo Mackison

The white low slung building is the EYE Film Institute Netherlands, a museum that preserves and presents both Dutch and foreign films screened in the Netherlands. The museum’s extensive collection includes 37,000 film titles, 60,000 posters, 700,000 photographs and 20,000 books.

And soon we will be arriving at the terminal of Amsterdam.

Day 9: Cruising the Kiel Canal

From my journal dictated October 2, 2018 19:00

The plan was to set sail and enter the Kiel Canal around 4 PM. However, due to strong winds, the ship had to wait for a tug escort, thus we were delayed by several hours. Still, it was enjoyable sitting on the Explorers Lounge, watching both the people waiting with anticipation and nearby ships plying the choppy waters.

We were scheduled to travel through the Kiel Canal all night long and reach Hamburg around noon. The 62-mile-long Kiel Canal links the North Sea and the Baltic Sea. More than 30,000 ships pass through the canal every year and it is ranked as one of the world’s busiest artificial waterways.

If you like facts and figures, this information about the Kiel Canal from the Encyclopedia Britannica is perfect:

Kiel Canal, also known as the Nord-Ostsee-Kanal (North Sea–Baltic Sea Canal) is a waterway in northern Germany, extending eastward for 61 miles from Brunsbüttelkoog (on the North Sea, at the mouth of the Elbe River) to Holtenau (at Kiel Harbour on the Baltic Sea). The canal has been enlarged twice and is now 526 feet wide and 37 feet deep and is spanned by seven high-level bridges that have about 140 feet of clearance for ships beneath them. The locks are 146 feet wide by 1,072 feet long. The canal constitutes the safest, most convenient, shortest, and cheapest shipping route between the two seas.

Here is Kiel Harbor on the Baltic Sea and the begining of the canal.

And here is the bow of the ship, nosing her way into the locks. The Viking Sky is 745 feet long with a beam of 94.5 feet so it was an easy fit inside the locks, but with the winds pushing us around it felt like we were much closer to the sides of the locks than in actuality.

Once we were inside the locks, the front gates slid into the side walls and we were free to pass.

After that sailing highlight, it was time for an eating/drinking highlight — the buffet offered a variety of German beers and German food including bratwurst. It felt almost like being back in Wisconsin!

And of course, the obligatory picture of setting sun, this one taken as we cruised through the Kiel Canal.

And here’s the sunrise, twelve hours later.

I was awake in time to see the ship exiting the locks at Brunsbüttelkoog and then we sailed the Elbe River making our way to Hamburg. We passed small towns with rows of terraced houses and views of the river. We arrived in Hamburg about noon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 9: A Gray Day in Kiel Germany

Parts are from my dictated journal dated October 2, 2018, 16:45

A brand new country — Germany. (Birthplace of many of my ancestors, though we are visiting the far north regions of Germany and many of my “great-greats” were from the Bavarian region.)

Kiel felt grey all day.  I know it didn’t help that we had overcast skies and lots of rain, and that Kiel is more industrial and less historic. Since much of the city was demolished in World War II, it makes sense that the city has a different feel than places like Oslo or Aalborg. Even the older looking buildings have all been built after WWII. Perhaps if we were to return when it is summer and blue skies are prevalent, I might have a different take.

Today’s weather was inclement and I’m continuing to favor a bum leg, so we chose to stay in town rather than take the 5+ hour tour to Lübeck. We scheduled a replacement tour to the Kiel Maritime Museum which was only a quick walk from where the ship was docked.

Kiel Maritime Museum Source: Rüdiger Stehn / flickr

The maritime museum (Schiffahrtsmuseum) is in a former fish market hall at the Kiel harbor and its building was my favorite part of the museum. I have no photos of my own of the outside, because it’s hard to take photographs when in pelting cold rain, but here is a photo taken when the sun was shining. Source: Rüdiger Stehn / flickr

I’m quite taken by the idea of rehabbing old buildings and repurposing them, and Kiel’s Museum has been done with fine execution. The museum was large and open and filled with a wonderful soft light, all features that made the museum an inviting space.

The current exhibit was an installation titled 1918 and focused on a time of great change for the German military.

The beginning of the unwinding of the German monarchism started in Kiel in 1918 when the military commanders ordered their fleet to sail for one more battle after a series of staggering defeats and the sailors staged a revolt and refused.

Although I see the usefulness of documenting history, I don’t especially enjoy touring war history museums. And this exhibit was all about World War II. That bias admitted, those in the audience who were interested in history, including Bob, found the exhibits well done and informative.

The posters of propaganda, and the stories behind them, were interesting, and I was fascinated with the well crafted calligraphy in the hundred year old posters. All documentation of a time when great sacrifices were demanded of the German citizens, all with the promise of imminent victory, and the people sacrificed everything; they also lost everything.

After our Maritime Museum visit, we walked towards the city center. Still raining, still cold. We headed for Stadtgalerie Kiel (Kiel Municipal Gallery of Contemporary Arts and what we hoped to be a promising contemporary arts museum, but once inside we discovered the current exhibit was about — war. Ugh! No desire to spend much time here, but we did do a quick walk through.

We discovered a tucked-in-the-back art library which looked oh-so-enticing.

This museum houses a permanent exhibition of the works of the Expressionist artist Heinrich Ehmsen who was a Kiel native.

I finally ended up taking photographs of the art gallery itself-–a long hallway with a single patron, five paintings and a bench, symmetrical windows and radiators. All Miksang-like photos.

Then we left and I bought a leather jacket and Bob bought a beer. These activites redeemed the day.

Biergarten Holstenplatz © 2018 Bo Mackison

Here’s the site of the Biergarten Holstenplatz which offered a variety of local beer.

St. Nikolai Wing Altar ©2018 Bo Mackison

It’s hard to pass by a church without going in. St. Nikolai was no exception. The old church was destroyed during the war, but the church’s art was hidden and was later returned to the church after it was rebuilt.

This highly ornate wing altar was carved in 1460.

We frequently saw word “fahren” on street signs, a word that always caught our eye as it is a part of our surname.

Fahren: to drive, move, pass, run.

We returned to the ship midafternoon in preparation for an early departure me. There were a few openings in the gray clouds and the blue sky was most welcome sight.

Next we are heading through the Kiel Canal on our way to Hamburg. The 62-mile-long Kiel Canal links the North Sea and the Baltic Sea. More than 30,000 ships pass through the canal every year, which ranks it among the world’s busiest artificial waterways.

Here’s a rainbow farewell.