Day 7: Aalborg, The Sheltered Port in the Storm

October 16, 2018 by

Parts are from dictated journal September 30, 2018 9:45 PM

Aalborg was not a planned stop, but high winds forced the Viking Sky to abandon any idea of stopping in Skagen. I was most looking forward to seeing, but Aalborg with its protected harbor was the better plan.

We pulled into Aalborg early and had plenty of time to enjoy the view from the ship. The red brick building in the photograph on the left was once the customs house. On the right a view of the main street in Aalborg: the white steeple is Budolfi Cathedral and shorter red staple to its left is the Monastery of the Holy Ghost.

While waiting to receive clearance to come ashore, there was plenty for passengers to do. Some of us went for a swim with a view in the Infinity Pool while others of us created in our travel journal.

The first building we saw was once the customs house and is now, fittingly, a bank. I quite liked the terraced fountain area in the Square. The fountains were already turned off in anticipation of the coming colder weather, but we were told unsuspecting people sit on these “convenient benches” and are then quite surprised when the fountains turn on.

Aalborghus Castle it Is a half-timbered 16th-century construction featuring a protected courtyard and a dark dungeon. Today the castle is the seat of the Kings Governors for the province of Northern Jutland.

Mural by Swiss NeverCrew  ©2018 Bo Mackison

Lipstick mural. There appears to be a movement in many of the Scandinavian cities we’ve visited to invite artists to create large murals and street art. Aalborg has its own version. What better way to revitalize the exterior of an old building then with an interesting mural?

Aalborg’s most famous landmark, the Renaissance-style house of wealthy 17th-century merchant Jens Bang.

From VisitAalborg website: “With its five storeys, Jens Bang’s House with all of its decorations meant to challenge the bourgeoisie, was a giant in the cityscape of the past. The house was built during the Renaissance in 1624, and it is one of the biggest and most photographed historical sites of the city.”

From VisitAalborg’s website: City Hall. Dates 1759 on the north side and 1762 on the front indicate the period in which it was built. Today it is only used for official receptions and civil marriages.

Budolfi Cathedral

From VisitAalborg’s website: Archeologists have found traces of a wooden church on the spot where Budolfi Cathedral is placed today. The wooden church dates back to circa 1000, but the cathedral as we know it was built in the 1400s in Gothic style. The Baroque spire was erected in 1779 and the altarpiece and pulpit date back to the 17th century. The church has been the cathedral of Aalborg diocese with room for around 650 churchgoers since 1554.

One of the things that makes Budolfi Cathedral stand out from the other cathedrals in Denmark is the amazing carillon which plays on the hour. It was incredible experience to hear the carillon chime. I recorded it, but the music lasted over a minute and the file was too big to add to the blog.

Monastery of the Holy Ghost ©2018 Bo Mackison

From VisitAalborg’s website: The monastery is the oldest social institution in Denmark. It was established in 1431 by Maren Hemmings. The cloister is a quiet oasis in the middle of the city. Today, the monastery houses 28 senior apartments, making it the oldest residential property in Aalborg.

This building was the site of the first meeting place of the Churchill Club, a group of eight teenage schoolboys from Aalborg Cathedral School who performed acts of sabotage against the Germans during the occupation of Denmark in the WWII. It is believed to be the earliest resistance group to be formed in Denmark.

One of my favorite streets was the tiny cobblestone alleyway through the Hjelmerstald neighborhood. Some of these buildings date from 1787.

One of the brick homes in Hjelmerstald has a door with a list of everyone who has lived there–14 landlords since 1787.

Interiors of the 19th-century Church of Our Lady. Dating from 1878, the sacristy is more decorative than many of the churches we’ve visited. Also unusual, the church’s walls are decorated with epithets — these were paintings of church members’ families and were hung on the church walls according to privilege and rank.

A Pretty Garden near the Church of Our Lady © 2018 Bo Mackison

 

A view of the Viking Sky in the Aalborg Harbor from the steps of the Utzon Center.

Sculpture art and possible Rusty Panel art at Aalborg Harbor.

Utzon Center in Aalborg ©2018 Bo Mackison

From VisitAalborg website: “The impressive Utzon Center is a vibrant cultural center in the Aalborg waterfront. The center was designed by the famous Danish architect Jørn Utzon, who was raised in Aalborg, and his son Kim.”

As we walked past this building we were drawn to a large window view of the interior and tables filled with bins of white LEGO blocks. If we had had time, we would have gone in and created our own architectural wonder. We did make time to go in the well-stocked museum shop and buy a few gifts to bring home. Also yellow framed sunglasses may have been acquired at this stop!

What could be better for dinner after a long day of walking cobblestoned streets, often in the rain? Seafood and a table of desserts!

Under sail at sunset, heading to Fredericia, Denmark.

Filed Under: Photography, Travel

Day 6 Oh, Oslo!

October 15, 2018 by

From my dictated journal on September 29, 2018 8:40 PM:

I love Oslo.

Sailing the Oslofjord and pulling into the dock before sunrise and everything was cool blue and quiet.

Once off the ship, and on our way to a morning of art museums and Edvard Munch, we passed the Akershus Fortress. The colorful installation in front of the Akershus is a part of Oslo’s effort to rid the city center of as many cars as possible. The empty parking lots have inspired a whole new breed of art — post-traffic art installations. This parking lot now has a colorful design and a parking meter that’s equipped with a WiFi speaker where you play your own music and dance along. Shall We Dance? is by artist Marisa Ferreira.

Empty Chairs © 2018 Bo Mackison

There’s also art near the Fortress with a more serious intention — it’s an art memorial for Jewish Holocaust victims.

Artist Antony Gormley described his sculpture in this way: “The Holocaust cannot be represented. I want to make a place to remember, to make a bridge between the living and the dead in order that these events and their implication should not be lost. The site is very evocative with the most minimal intervention. The presence of the excluding walls of the fort and the sea are already very powerful imaginative catalysts. The trees act as a witness to time and its passing.”

Santa by L.A. Artist Paul McCartney © 2018 Bo Mackison

We saw lots of street art while touring Oslo on our way to art in art museums. Art in Oslo is both inside and outside. Paul McCartney recently unveiled his sculpture Santa, a six-meter tall, Santa-red cast iron rendition of the holiday icon holding something that looks like a Christmas tree. Hm. It IS an interesting feature in the middle of a round about.

We then visited the National Gallery and saw several of Munch’s paintings, including his famed The Scream, Madonna, The Sick Child, Dance of Life and Puberty, plus lots of works by Munch’s 20th century contemporaries such as Harald Sohlberg, Henrik Sørensen, Ludvig Karsten and the sculptor Gustav Vigeland, and I especially enjoyed my introduction to the Scandinavian landscape painters and Norwegian Romanticists.

Monet’s Rain at Etratat, 1886t

More rooms displayed art by Monet, Manet, Van Gogh, Gaugin, Toulouse-LaTrec. And of course 90 minutes in any museum is never enough, and thus much of the museum’s collection required walk-bys, so I definitely need to plan another sojourn to Oslo.

Following our stroll through the National Gallery, we drove to the Munch Museum.  Edvard Munch bequeathed all of his works and arts and papers to the city of Oslo. They are mostly housed in a museum built in 1964; a new museum is being built and will be completed next year.

I love the Munch Museum; I think I would love any museum dedicated to a single artist. Of course, other artist’s work is shown in the museum. We were there while this was open: Moonrise, An Exhibit of Marlene Dumas and Edward Munch.  (Follow the link for all sorts of information.)

After our museum tour was over, we headed back to the ship. On the way we drove past the Opera House. Lots of people were walking up the structure. Architect firm is Snøhetta. Beautiful from afar!

From Wikipedia: “The roof of the building angles to ground level, creating a large plaza that invites pedestrians to walk up and enjoy the panoramic views of Oslo. While much of the building is covered in white granite and La Facciata, a white Italian carrara marble, the stage tower is clad in white aluminium, in a design by Løvaas & Wagle that evokes old weaving patterns.”

I have to come back to Oslo. I’ve never wanted to see opera before my life, but this building makes me want to come back and see opera!

Smørrebrød on the Viking Sky © 2018 Bo Mackison

Smørrebrød! Yes. Back to the ship for lunch and our first taste of Smørrebrød, an open face sandwich with a bit of salad and a topping of meat or fish. (And then, after that meal, all seems well with the world!)

We canceled our planned excursion to Vigeland Park because of inclement weather (RAIN!) and an aching hip. Next time! But we were not about to sit on the ship with an entire city beckoning us to explore. So we walked across the street from the cruise ship terminal and took a steep set of stairs set into a grassy knoll to the back entrance of Akershus. A trek through a tunnel and an iron gate, and we were in the Akershus Fortress facing the harbor. What a view!

We played with the cannons, pretending to fire on the pretty Viking Sky. And then we strolled through the grounds, dodging the rainstorms, and eventually discovered Norway’s Resistance Museum. A must visit site.

Norway Resistance Museum, photo from Visit Oslo.

The Norway Resistance Museum at Akershus Fortress documents Norway’s domestic WWII history from 1940-1945. The exhibition has re-created five years of Nazi occupation through pictures, documents, posters, objects, models, and original copies of newspapers and recordings. The Museum is located in a building that dates from the 17th century, and adjoins the memorial for Norwegian patriots executed during the war.

It’s a sobering museum, and yet it still speaks loudly, honoring the efforts of those that refused to give in, refused to remain quiet, even while risking their lives.

We set sail down the Oslofjord about 6 PM, and got ourselves dried off just in time to claim a front row seat in the Explorer’s Lounge and take in the stunning sunset.

We sail tonight heading for Aalborg, a change in plans. Due to high winds we’ll no longer be visiting Skagen, but will instead visit the historic city of Aalborg which lies in more protected waters.

Filed Under: Art Museums, Photography, Travel Tagged With: , , , , , , , , , , , ,

Day 5: Gothenburg, Sweden

October 13, 2018 by

Gothenburg September 27, 2018, 5:30 p.m.

Our first port of call was Gothenburg, Sweden.

It was a cotton candy kind of morning as we pulled into Gothenburg. Gothenburg is the second largest city in Sweden and is the gateway to the North Sea and the Atlantic. We pulled into the harbor around 7 AM and got the okay to disembark at 8 AM. We had two tours scheduled for today–the included panoramic tour in the morning and an afternoon tour to Gothenburg’s Southern Archipelago. We were on the morning tour bus by 9 AM.

We drove through the city and crossed the 3,060-foot-long Älvsborg Bridge with its stunning views of Gothenburg.

First stop: Masthugget Church:

Masthugget Church was built in 1914 and is positioned on a high hill overlooking the city and near the Göta River. It’s a lovely church, filled with artwork and a great energy, but our tour guide told us it’s not unusual to have only 20 to 30 people at a Sunday service. Religion appears not to be a huge priority here nor does it appear to be used as a psychological group control tool. There is a government tax required of all church members, and perhaps that is one reason attendance is low? Also, the Swedes do not need to rely on the beneficence of the church for social and basic needs–Sweden takes care of their citizens–and perhaps this is also related?

View of Gothenburg © 2018 Bo Mackison

Early realization: It’s next to impossible to get any sort of decent photograph when you’re shooting from a dirt-smudged, reflective-windowed tour bus. That will just have to be okay. And I’ll keep trying anyway.

The included tour was a great overview and the guide was knowledgeable. But after the tour, Bob and I both wished we would have chosen to stay in town to explore on our own. Instead, we returned to the ship to meet our previously scheduled afternoon tour to the Archipelago. Something to keep in mind–we simply can’t see and do everything, thus the need to make more considered choices in the future. Since this was the first time in Sweden, I wish I’d planned to stay IN the city–maybe check out the art museum or the Botanic Gardens. This is a good thing to remember for next time…

Back to the ship for lunch (and to rest my unhappy feet) and it was a joy to sit in Pool Grill and indulge in such healthy and tasty fare

This afternoon we boarded a ferry in Saltholmen and crossed the Sound to Styrsö. Styrsö is one of the many small islands in Gothenburg’s Southern Archipelago and one of the six largest residential islands in the Archipelago. These islands are unique in that there are no cars on the islands. That does not mean there are no crazy drivers–but instead of driving cars, they are behind the wheel of golf carts (or maneuvering wheelbarrows or riding bicycles.)

A brisk walk on island roads, past quaint gingerbread-trimmed houses, red cottages, and all white summer homes perched on rocky terraces. Often we could spot flowerpots of blossoms in rows of windows.

We always enjoy visiting the various historic churches and the Styrsö Kyrka was no exception. This picturesque, white-walled, red-roofed church was built in 1752.

Styrsö Kyrka ©2018 Bo Mackison

The church yard encircles the structure itself, with family sections well maintained with shrubs and flower plantings. The church bell, which is inscribed with the phrase Soli Deo Gloria, was cast in Gothenburg in 1712. The bell has tolled every Sunday since the church was consecrated.

Archipelago Ship in the Church © 2018 Bo Mackison

The ship model is an “ordinary archipelago boat” and was donated by an islander who once captained a similar ship.

Walking the island was pleasant. We saw schoolchildren on their way home from school and a few couples traveling in their golf carts on our four mile jaunt, but none of the crowds that are typical of the high tourist summer season.

After lunch at an Island restaurant, we returned to the mainland on the ferry, then took the bus back to the ship. A full day in Gothenburg. The Ship just set sail for Oslo at 6 PM and it’s almost time to get ready for dinner.

Sailing east out of the harbor at sunset, the city of Gothenburg shimmered a golden orange. Such beauty.

We sailed past the Southern Islands and saw Styrsö from a different angle.

And then there was this view of the Baltic just after sunset:

Last thoughts: we indulged in charcuterie and a fruit and cheese tray from room service around midnight. Feeling decadent.

Tomorrow we’ll be in Oslo.

Filed Under: Photography, Travel Tagged With: , , , , , , ,

Day 4: Copenhagen and Setting Sail

October 10, 2018 by

Copenhagen Thursday, September 27, 2018, 10:20 p.m.

Good Morning, First sunrise on the Viking Sky © 2018 Bo Mackison

This was Day 2 of our Viking Cruiseline’s Scandinavia and the Kiel Canal cruise, but it’s Day 4 for us because we added the two-day Copenhagen extension. It was a good choice for us, especially with my travel anxiety. We arrived on Monday, then had two days to get settled and alleviate some of the jet lag symptoms, with plenty of time to make sure our luggage arrived when we did and explore art museums on our own. Yesterday we boarded the ship  and today we spent much of the day seeing just a bit more of Copenhagen. Then we set sail at 6 p.m. with cheers and champagne.

But first we explored more of Copenhagen with a Viking Walking Tour, then we went off on our own and did our own thing.

From the Viking Ocean Cruise website, this is their information about the included shore tour. (Every port has an included shore excursion at no extra cost, usually an introductory bus and/or walking tour. Optional, more in-depth and special interest tours are always available for a fee.) We’ve choesn to do a mix of both — the included tours plus a few special interest tours, especially when the special interest is related to an art museum or gallery tour.

Landmarks and History of Denmark’s Capital City — Included Tour

Explore the landmarks of Copenhagen and learn about the city’s history during a walking excursion. With a local guide, you will stop to see The Little Mermaid statue sitting serenely in the harbor at Langelinie and visit the courtyard at Amalienborg. Continue to Copenhagen’s largest monument, the Gefion Fountain, then Amalienborg Palace, the winter residence of the Queen of Denmark. Here, admire the royal rococo buildings and square, plus the stunning Marble Church, New Opera House and flourishing Amaliehaven (Amalie Garden) with its centerpiece fountain. Pass Frederiks Hospital—the country’s first hospital and now home to the Danish Museum of Art & Design—on your way to the Kastellet (The Citadel). A formidable fortress built in the shape of a five-pointed star, it is one of the best-preserved strongholds in Europe and has been protecting Copenhagen’s harbor since the early 17th century.

And now the breakdown of our walking tour:

We were a group of about thirty with one guide. We were unable to see the Mermaid State as originally planned because the ship had been unable to dock near the city center at Langeline due to strong winds. Instead, we took a bus into the center of the city and began at the site of the Kastellet, or the Citadel.

“Pass Frederiks Hospital—the country’s first hospital and now home to the Danish Museum of Art & Design” means walk past. We paused for a few minutes to allow time for photos of the front of the Marble Church. But we had more than adequate time to spend in the courtyard at Amalienborg Palace, and our guide timed it perfectly so we had front-row-standing to see the post replacement at the Prince’s Palace.

Though the tour guide was informative, we chose to leave the tour at this point. The tour was continuing on to see the Mermaid and the Gefion Fountain before returning to the ship, so we took this opportunity to return to the Marble Church.

The Marble Church with its copper green dome is quite impressive. Its t official name is Frederik’s Church, and King Frederik V laid the foundation stone in 1749, but it was not completed until 1894.

LEGO Chocolates are Tempting © 2018 Bo Mackison

Then we walked towards the City Center, but had to stop and admire some special chocolates! LEGOs!

Finally, last stop, we walked the canal of Nyhavn — there was only a peek of sunshine, but it was still worth seeing such an iconic sight.

Iconic Copenhagen’s Nyhavn or New Harbor © 2018 Bo Mackison

Nyhavn (which means New Harbor in Danish) is a waterfront and canal dating from the 17th century. It is lined by brightly coloured 17th and early 18th century townhouses and bars, cafes and restaurants. Historical wooden ships line the sides of the canal.

The northern side of Nyhavn is lined by brightly colored buildings built of wood, bricks, and plaster. The oldest house, at No. 9, dates from 1681.

Viking Sky ©2018 Bo Mackison

We returned to the ship and readied to set sail on the first water leg of our journey–Gothenburg Sweden.

The weather changes fast — we had blue skies for awile which gave way to clouds and a brisk wind.

We had reservations in one of the specialty restaurants tonight. It’s called the Chef’s Table and offered a five-course menu with an Asian theme. Bob had the wine pairings, one of the few occasions when an extra charge is added. ($25) He enjoyed the pairings.

The menu sounded a bit intimidating, with a few items I was unfamiliar with, but everything though often unusual was exceptional in taste.

Filed Under: Photography, Travel Tagged With: , , , , , , , , ,

Day 3: More Copenhagen: Exploring on Foot

October 10, 2018 by

Copenhagen Wednesday September 26, 2018 9:35 PM

The shuttle bus dropped us across the street from Magison du Nord, a multi-story used-to-be-fancy hotel, now a fancy department store. We made the mistake of walking through the first floor, only to discover a huge sale was taking place, and the masses were buying everything. Of course, there was nothing we either one, wanted, or two, could happily afford, so we made a quick exit out the back door and began to amble along the cobblestone streets. Immediately we got turned around and lost.

But such pretty sights we saw. A fountain with birds. Little courtyards in yellow. Fancy decorated sidewalks.

Earlier we’d found directions to the National Gallery of Denmark and Google maps kept telling us we were only a mile away. 15 minutes. Ha ha. We would walk four blocks and the Google would claim the same thing — one mile and 15 minutes. By the time we got un-turned around and heading in the correct direction, we spent nearly an hour getting to the front door. It didn’t help we kept losing the cell signal and losing our directions! Reminder to self: I need to download maps!

It started raining–again. I’m glad I had my hat and gloves as the evening air got chilly fast. Still, we had a great time, even lost and cold and wet, strolling (more like blustering) through King’s Garden and gawking at the Rosenborg Castle. And my feet hurt, yes, I now have three blisters. I should’ve worn my colder season shoes more in the weeks before leaving, espaecially after a summer of sandals, but I was so intent on preparing emotionally for this journey, I didn’t quite get around to preparing physically. It’s a good thing there is so much new and unusual to see. It helps me stay focused on what’s important. (hint: not my feet or the weather)

So much new and interesting to see. Once we finally got cell service which let us consult Google Maps again, we found our way through a magical place — King’s Garden — with castles and tree-lined walks and an assortment of statues and fountains and other pretty things.

And yes, we finally found our way to the Art Museum and what a worthwhile conclusion to our weary trek.

SMK (Statens Museum for Kunst) is the National Gallery of Denmark. It is the largest art museum in Denmark and home to the nation’s most extensive and important collection of art, covering 700 years.

The showcase exhibit was Take My Breathe Away by Danh Vo. From the SMK website:

“Migration, cultural history and identity are key themes addressed in SMK’s new special exhibition Danh Vo: Take My Breath Away. Danish-Vietnamese Danh Vo ranks among Denmark’s pre-eminent internationally acclaimed living artists – as reflected in this exhibition, which comes to SMK directly from the Guggenheim in New York.”

Stunning work by Vo. Letters from Kissinger era, cultural artifacts, Viet Nam war ephemera — all combined to speak loudly of home and loss and migration as expressed through an artist’s lens.

The architecture of the gallery was exquisite. I particularly liked how the old was joined to the new; second-floor walkways cantilevered above the first-floor sculpture garden.

The original wing included Danish and Nordic art:

The new wing was filled with modern and contemporary offerings:

I loved the exhibit titled 80 Collages for Field Book by Per Kirkeby:

Kirkeby was originally trained as a geologist, so was well familiar with the concept of a field book.  His many subjects included architecture, trees, art techniques, and maps. From 2009- 2012

Walking back to the shuttle bus stop, we once again passed through Kings Garden and stopped to admire the Rosenborg Castle and its surrounding gardens from afar. There was even a moat.

And then back on the shuttle bus and on to the Viking Sky and a late dinner. Almost too exhausted to enjoy the food. Almost, not quite.

Map added for clarification: the lower red dot is where the shuttle bus dropped us off. The yellow line is what we walked on our way to the upper red dot — which is the location of the SMK or National Gallery of Denmark. The little red dot in the lower middle is where we had a welcome warming cappuccino on our way back to the bus.

Filed Under: Art Museums, Photography, Travel Tagged With: , , , , , ,
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